Pune's Oldest MarketPlace

Until a few years ago, I wasn’t even aware that a place named Raviwar Peth exists in Pune. This place holds a special place in my heart as it was from a shop in this market that I got one of my wedding dresses made. And now after a duration of five years, once again I stumbled upon a chance to explore the area. This time, it was a walking tour led by Randhir, who runs an organisation by the name Pune Heritage Story. This was my 3^rdwalking tour with him. He conducts over 15+ walks in and around Pune.

Interiors of Saifee Masjid

Though the meeting point of this walk was the newly started Mandai Metro station, the actual walk commenced from the oldest mosque in Pune, Saifee Masjid. Raviwar Peth is essentially a market area bustling with sellers and buyers throughout. The history of this marketplace dates to the 17^th century. It was started by Jijabai behind the Kasba Peth area of Pune. Initially, the nomenclature was Malakapur. In the year 1760, The Maratha empire had completed its centenary year. It was at this time; the names of all markets were changed by Nana Fadanavis. The names were as per the days of the week like Raviwar, Somwar,Mangalwar etc. Each market place is dedicated to selling of specific types of goods.Like, in Shaniwar Peth, all materials relating to printing and stationery are sold. But in Raviwar Peth, all types of products are available, right from vegetables, packaging materials, incense sticks to cloth materials used for various purposes.

 Interestingly, the foundation of Saifee Masjid was laid on the same day as that of Shaniwar Wada by Bajirao Peshwe. Though only a few remnants of the original structure still exists. It was my first time entering a mosque. Must say, it was an enriching experience.

Our entire walking group was served flavoured milk drinks. Much needed to beat the sultry heat. Next we moved towards the city Jama Masjid.

Jama Masjid's Entrance

The entrances to both these Masjids were quite narrow. Rather, while entering the alleyway leading towards Saifee Masjid, one would have never imagined a huge structure in the interiors. Though the entryway towards the Jama Masjid was small, the entrance arch made it look grander. The arch had a confluence of British and Maratha architecture. The Jama Masjid was built in the late 1830’s.

 The lane in which the market exists, is known as Bohri Ali. Named after the Bohri Muslims, who have settled in this area. A typical building on Bohri Ali, is two storied with shops on the ground floor and residences on the upper floors. But now, the higher floors are mostly used for storing inventory.

Exteriors of Someshwar Temple

We then moved towards another religious place, the Someshwar Temple. This pious place was built by Jijabai in 1640. 100 years later, a pot of gold was found in the temple premises which was then used to rebuild the entire temple, in 1750. Initially only a shivling was there, eventually, temples of other gods and goddesses also got built.

Interiors of Laxmi Narayan Temple

Just opposite the Someshwar Temple, is another temple known as Laxmi Narayan. This temple site was constructed in the 1800’s. One can still see the original architecture in the temple premises.

Residence of Melody Makers

Let’s take a leap forward to the 20^th century. In the 1960’s a group of four college students, started their own musical band, Melody Makers. This was the first analog music recording studio in Pune. Stalwarts like Kishor Kumar, Mohmaad Rafique, Asha Bhosale have recorded here.

This heritage walk ends at an aromatic place, Haridas Madhavrao Sugandhi. They are the oldest incense stick manufacturers. Their products are only exported to countries like USA ,Germany, Australia, Switzerland etc.

We witnessed the entire incense stick making process during the walk. The bamboo sticks used in this process are imported from China as they are sturdier.

Overall, this heritage walk was an eyeopener for me. I was amazed to know how different communities have been coexisting peacefully in this area. These aren’t places which are usually on anyone’s list. Hence, I would urge everyone to go on the “Raviwar Peth Heritage” Walk by Pune Heritage Story.